Simone Rocha´s coquette dollhouse at London Fashion Week

Irish fashion designer Simone Rocha presented her Fall Winter 2023 Ready to Wear show at London Fashion Week.The collection was inspired by Lughnasadh, a gaelic festival that celebrates the beginning of the harvest season about halfway between the summer solstice and autumn equinox. The nature of the festival serves Rocha as both a visual and emotional queue for the season, from the show scenary up to the hair and makeup, adorning a great majority of the looks with a set of red bows and teary eyed effects, meant to recall the blood used in the festival to lure spirits away. This look made waves across social media under the name "ribbon tears" becoming one of the most influential beauty trends of fashion month.

Beautiful ornate slip dresses in shades of nude become the foundation for voluminous constructions which combine the femininity of the theme with details of naval inspiration in black and navy capes, like sailor collars and heavy knits explored more prevalently on the menswear and combined subtly on the women pieces. For accesories, the harvest theme becomes the clearest in the shape of raffia basket bags, a motif further explored in one of the dresses as a total look.

The gaelic celebration also served Rocha on a conceptual level, assisting her exploration of combining both women and menswear in the runway, in a form of ritualistic dialogue, which in this collection presents “love and lust” as its common narrative arch.

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