Vivetta pulls inspiration from Sofia Coppola and 60s fashion for her AW23 show at Milan Fashion Week

Italian designer Vivetta Ponti has created a brand that excells on finding the the balance of playful yet practical design proposals, and this season is not different. For her Autumn Winter 2023 proposal the designer brought the magic of the 60s to the runway of Milan Fashion Week, with a collection that takes conceptual cues from the American pop girl group the Shangri-Las and explores the fragility of girlhood of Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides.

Her trip back in time to the decade of love brings us an exploration of the juxtaposition of the femenine and the masculine.The softness of girly pieces like babydoll dresses, Mary Janes and Petticoats are paired with features borrowed from menswear like fitted suits and oversized coats.

Typically the approach for combining opposed elements tilts heavily towards a neutral palette, stripping down the typical indulgence of femenine attire in favour of the atemporal simplicity of masculine wear. Yet for Vivetta´s designs the road taken bets on revitalising the codes of both genders with the inclusion of unlike style pairings, and subvert expectations by bringing proposals that don’t sacrifice expression for the sake of appealing to a gender neutral wardrobe. There’s no attempt to neutralise the differences, instead she leans into them.

In this way, the deconstructed suits and street style bennies return to the romantic femininity by combining elements of both 60s and 90s fashion, and are still read as soft thanks to the addition of details such as bows, patterned tights and a palette composed of neutrals, candy pink and the stellar colors of the season cherry red and baby blue. The most antithetical styling choice has got to be the bennie with the kitty ears paired with the pale pink nightgown. A merge of both worlds that strikes the ethos of the collection just right.

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